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How small can you feel? The passage through Bicazului Gorges in Romania doesn’t welcome you it engulfs you, like stepping between the ribs of some petrified leviathan. Stone rises in vertiginous defiance on both sides, not merely cliffs but cathedrals of calcified time, damp with shadow and memory. The road coils through it like a hesitant thought, each curve a quiet dare, each meter forward a negotiation with gravity and instinct. Here, in Cheile Bicazului, erosion is not destruction but author
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